Sunday, April 17, 2011

Almost there on the CNC router.

If I had the right cable I would have been able to make my steppers move today.  I need a 25 pin m/m cable.  All I had was a serial m/f cable.  So, I need the correct one or a m/m gender changer.


Electronics board mostly wired.  All that is missing is the steppers.  They got wired, but I still couldn't test.



Finally got my Dremel mounted.  I waited until now because I was still using it to cut stuff. 

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Prusa frame complete

I got the basic frame built on my Conedel Prusa last night. I picked up a 6 inch cutoff saw from harbor freight and it made the cutting of smooth and threaded rod much easier.  I found that some of the pieces that I clamped when drilling aren't quite as perfect as I had hoped.  This is yet another reason to re-do the drilling guide.  The z-axis motor mounts ended up getting their holes drilled a little too far apart which made mounting them difficult.  They seem to fit OK for now, but they may need to be the first pieces that I print and replace.
Today I am going to finish building the Prusa and then work on getting a computer setup for the BluumaxCNC.  I have a stack of computers and none of them are in any shape to drive the thing right now.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Update

I have been really busy at work.  While I have had some time to work in the shop, I haven't had time to blog.
I purchased the Bluumaxcnc.com gantry router setup.  It was pretty easy to build.  I had a couple little issues, but in retrospect, I think I was sleep deprived.  It is fully assembled now.  I working on setting up a PC for it.  I hope to have it built and be making some sawdust this weekend.

On the Prusa front, I still haven't gotten the couplers that weren't in my kit from Metrix hackerspace.  I need to follow up with another email.  I have cut all the smooth rod for it.  I will cut the threaded rod this weekend, as I think I will have access to a cut-off saw.  Cutting all this rod with either a Dremel or hacksaw makes for a great deal of work.  With the Dremel, you cannot get a straight cut due to the diameter of the handle.  I suppose it wouldn't be so bad if you had some sort of 90 degree attachment that made the attack angle of the blade more like that of a angle grinder.  I still owe you an updated "How to drill the Prusa parts" document.  The one that I wrote recommends using a clamp and Metrix and others do not recommend that as hand holding the parts will allow the drill bit to migrate into the divot. I just worry that my angles will be off.  I need to decide how I am going to re-write it.

Hopefully I will have more time to write this weekend.  I should get a video up of my first cut too.

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Parts is parts is parts is here.

I got my McMaster Carr order today.  25 pounds of hardware goodness.  I will now start to assemble my clonedel.  YAY!!  I am very excited.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Finished drilling the Clonedel parts. Updated drill document to come.

I "finished" drilling my Clonedel parts today.  I put finished in quotes because all the holes that need to be drilled have not yet been.  However, I couldn't go any further with the process tonight.  I don't have a 5mm drill bit for the pulley shaft.  Also, the "x-end motor" assembly has marks for a motor, but mine won't fit any of them.  I need to review this.

I learned a lot about the process and have pictures to help clarify much of this.  I don't have time to update the doc tonight. So, here are some notes.  These are the things that I am going to add to the How-To.

Drilling these parts is not a race.  You will need to slow down and be really careful on some of them, as there is a likelihood that they will snap unless supported.


Dust management is ESSENTIAL!  Since I was using the drill press vice to support all of the pieces, I was able to hold my shop vacuum nozzle close to the workpiece and kept the drill bit clean.  If you don't keep your drill bit clean, you are more likely to experience binding of the piece, and binding can lead to breakage.

The bar clamps are very fragile.  The original drilling guide recommended using an extra piece of rod to support the "loop end." Trying this technique, I broke one of my bar clamps.  (nothing a little super glue couldn't fix) I found that it is more important to support the ends that you are drilling.  I put a thick piece of corrugated cardboard between them.  I matched the thickness to match the opening.  So, I now have a sandwich of cardboard between the two pieces of plastic that need to be drilled.  I locked the bottom piece in my drill press vice and that left the cardboard sitting directly on the vice face and the other piece resting securely above.   I then drilled very slowly to avoid letting that top piece bind.  Once I got through the top piece the rest was simple.  The bottom piece could support a lot more speed.

If your pieces are cast in a clear(ish) resin, it is sometimes to see the smaller drill locator markers.  If you lightly sand the piece, these markers will become more visable.

In the clonedels, the x-end-idler and the x-end-motor are two pieces each.  There are V-channels running the length of each of them.  These are instead of having to drill VERY long 5/16 holes for the rod.

Since the Z-motor mounts are not flat, I flipped the second one and clamped them face to face.  This helped assure the the holes would be parallel to the "back."

Remember, Drilly Pete says to be careful and protect the parts you don't want to lose.